Friday, September 17, 2010

Vintage Dress Lesson 2

We are now ready to attach the front skirt to the yoke. All of the old patterns that I have attached the skirt by slip stitching by hand...I knew that I needed to come up with something else! Once again "Wonder Tape" came to the rescue. I used a fabric marker and drew a line 5/8" from the bottom edge of the yoke. This is the seam allowance and where the stitching will go. Stitcky side down, I stuck Wonder Tape slightly below the marked line. Peel off the top paper layer of the Wonder Tape. Carefully matching the yoke and skirt center, lay the smocked area of the skirt on top of the tape, so that the top row of smocking lines up with the marked seam allowance. Take time to double check that the centers match, and that the pleaters are spread out evenly. It is easy to pull the skirt away from the tape and reposition if needed.

Although this part made me a little nervous, I was successful on the first try! Using light weight machine thread to match the main color of the fabric, straight stitch right below the first smocked row. Once everything is completed this stitching line is hard to see!

I should have taken more pictures at this point, but I got excited that the sewing was going so well and forgot, so you will need to use your imagination......sorry about that! :) We now need to get rid of the Wonder Tape. Although it will rinse out in cold water, I chose to just pull it off by hand. I turned the garment to the wrong side and gently separated the bottom yoke edge that was "taped" to the skirt and pulled the Wonder Tape off. You will also see that the smocked top edge of the skirt extends into the armhole. Baste this extended edge of the skirt to the armhole edge and them trim away the excess fabric. On the wrong side, press the bottom yoke edge up toward the yoke.

You are now ready to continue sewing the dress. Stop when you get to the sleeves! For next weeks lesson we will redraft the sleeve.


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