#105 Pattern of the Week

Need an idea for a timeless little boy bubble? Pattern #105, can be dressy or casual, depending on your fabric choice. The bubble buttons down the front, and has soft pleats down each side to add a little fullness. Featured in an add for Dancing Needles fabric shop, this bubble, made from Swiss Batiste is perfect for a portrait.

Made from a soft blue twill and a white embroidered collar, this version has a more casual look.

A white bubble with a blue collar, edged with hand Bridging, give this bubble a totally different look. Little blue bullion anchors are hand stitched at the bottom of each pleat.

Not to leave out the girls, this bubble features a pink collar and bullion flowers at the bottom of the pleats.

Just is time Easter, pale green linen and rickrack, in the place of Bridging, is an elegant but practical outfit.

Tiny bullion carrots are stitched at the bottom of each pleat. The bullion carrots are super easy, and can be found in the "Heirloom Embroidery Book."

Road Trip!

Once again, I am teaching at Beth's Heirloom Sewing this Friday. I visited this wonderful shop back in the fall, and will never be in the Montgomery, Alabama area again, without stopping in!

The shop is located in Wetumpka, Al about 15 miles north of Montgomery. My husband likes to drive me down for the classes, drop me off, and spends the day at the "guy stores" in the area. Last time we went, he ate lunch at a popular BBQ restaurant and kept describing the really cool grill he had found at the sporting goods store. He refers to these day trips as "our vacation." I keep reminding him that I am teaching, so it is a work day for me, but he isn't buying it. He knows that in reality it is "Sewing with the girls day!"

Beth's has everything for your heirloom sewing needs and classes that teach a variety of sewing techniques. I will be teaching a beginning heirloom sewing class on Friday. The class filled up right away, so there are plans for me to go back the following Friday to do the class again!

You can see from the pictures that they have a wonderful selection of patterns, fabrics, laces, and notions for children's' clothing. The shop is open Wed. - Fri. 10:00 - 6:00, and Sat. 9:00 - 1:00.

I had planned to go with a list of things I need to add to my fabric stash, but after looking these pictures I have changed my mind. I'm just going to arrive early and stay late, so that I will have plenty of time to shop!

The Blue Gingham Bishop

I gave you a peak of this blue gingham bishop in a previous blog, with the promise of sharing the smocking design. I had not forgotten. The problem is that it takes me almost as long to graph the design as it does to smock the dress!

I am often asked, how long it takes me to smock an outfit. I am a pretty fast smocker, so this pretty little dress was about, "two movies", or this week that would translate to several Olympic events. Between the Olympic games, and the winter weather that most of us are having, maybe we can all get some smocking in!

This is a simple design, and because there are only 6 rows of smocking, it works well on the smaller size dresses. I hope you enjoy it.

Row 1: Cable

Rows 2, 2 1/2, and 3: Baby Waves

Rows 4 1/2 and 5: 3 step Trellis, Cable 5, 3 step Trellis

Row 4 1/2: Flowerettes


The Sleeves were smocked with 3 rows of Baby Waves.

Folded Placket

Patterns #102, #111, #112, #126, along with several others, all have a Folded Placket. This is an easy placket, but because of different weight fabrics and marking the fold lines, it can feel tricky the first time you try it.

With the back right sides together, sew the center back seam from the bottom to the dot, back stitching at the dot. Clip to the dot. Trim the seam to 1/4" and zigzag the raw edge.

With the wrong side up, turn under each placket twice along the fold lines and press. Press the center back seam to the right.

Turn the garment to the right side and place the left back placket over the right. If they do not line up on top of each other, adjust the plackets along the fold lines and repress. I have found that for some garments the fold lines will need a depth of 6/8", but for most 5/8" works best. This is such a small amount that it will not throw off the fit of the garment.

Tuck under the bottom raw edge of the left placket at an angle, and baste it in place.

After the garment is completed, work the button holes, sew on the buttons, and with a hand sewing needle and thread, slip stitch the bottom edge of the placket along the fold line.

In a perfect world, sewing would have exact measurements, but then where would the adventure be?

Slashed Placket

I thought I would give you a visual of the placket that I use on pattern #101. It is simple slashed placket, that basically requires folding and pressing.

Right side up, mark all of the cutting and fold lines with a blue wash-away marker. Next, cut along the solid lines, and fold under 1/8" of the left placket raw edge and stitch.

On the wrong side of the fabric, press the fabric open along the fold lines.

Right side up, lap the right placket over the left placket.

This leaves a pleat all the way down the back of the gown. I like to complete the gown and button holes before I top stitch along the dots at the bottom of the placket

This should answer the question, "Should I have a pleat at the bottom of the placket?" Now, you may bravely go on and make this sweet gown!

#104 Pattern of the Week

Pattern #104 includes the pattern for a dress or bubble! Create your own overlay with your choice of embroidery, tucks, and lace. The pink dress and white matching bubble were both featured in the July-Aug., 2003, edition of "Creative Needle" magazine.

The boy's bubble, is made from white pima cotton and is trimmed with ecru lace and entredeux.

The overlay uses just enough lace and tucks, to make it dressy, without being over done.

This elegant version is made from Swiss Nelona and a purchased trim edging.

This is a great way to stretch your dollar, when using the more expensive fabrics and laces.

Featured in "Creative Needle" magazine April, 2006, the designer of this dress used cotton prints, simple smocking, and embroidery to give the dress a totally different look.

The ducks are embroidered on white pique', and can be found in the "Heirloom Embroidery Book."

It may be cold and miserable outside now, but it is time to start our Spring sewing!

Martha Pullen School Feb 2010

I am finally back after spending a week teaching at Martha Pullen School of Art and Fashion in Huntsville, Alabama. It is always exhausting, but totally worth it! The Smocking and Construction classes that I taught were filled to capacity with enthusiastic students ready to learn a new skill or brush up on an old one.

Here are a few pictures from the fashion show on Friday night. It is always fun to not only see my garments modeled, but also the lovely creations by the other teachers and students.

The red polka dot dress was made using pattern #131, by my friend Suzanne, owner of "Olivia Ann Designs." The collar is her original design.


The blue and orange floral dress was also made from #131. The sweet little girl modeling both dresses did such a good job. Isn't she cute!

This sleeveless version, features a white pique' bodice, orange gingham piping around the armholes, collars, and the bottom of the bodice.

The flowers are made from Bullion Loops, with French Knot center. The flower stems are a Running Stitch, with Bullion Stitches for the leaves, and Straight Stitches for the grass. All of the embroidery stitches can be found in the "Heirloom Embroidery Book."