Inspired By Buttons

This is not the first time in my many years of sewing that I fell in love with buttons and designed an outfit around them!  I often use pretty buttons as the focal point and keep the rest of the outfit simple. Pattern #133 had the look I was going for and navy DMC floss tied the white pique' fabric and white and navy buttons together.

To keep things simple, I added a Running Stitch to the collar.

Is there a secret for keeping the stitching straight and even?  Yes there is!  

Cut out the collars; starch and press.  Using a wash-away marker, mark the seam allowance around the outer edge of the collar.  Thread the sewing machine with thread the same color as the collar.  Set the stitch length to the length you would like your Running Stitch and stitch 1/4" from the seam allowance.  Thread a hand sewing needle with 3 strands of embroidery floss and stitch the Running Stitch close to the machine stitching using it as a guide.  When the stitching is completed, tie off the floss and pull out the machine stitching.  Attach the lining to the collar and complete the garment.  :)

Little tricks and tips go a long way to achieve a profession look.

Michie'

Matching Plaids

I have always loved sewing with plaids.  Just a few things need to be kept in mind in order to have a successful sewing experience.  First of all, take a close look at the pattern of the fabric.  The way the fabric is pictured the white stripe is below the small blue stripe. Because of this, the top of all the pattern pieces should be going in the same direction.  This is called a one-directional plaid.



 

I like to prepare the pattern pieces using a ruler and marker and extending the grain line on the pattern piece.  Next, draw a line perpendicular to the grain line.   It does not matter at which point the lines intersect.  Pin the pattern piece to one layer of fabric and cut out.  Flip the pattern piece face down, lining up the marked lines as first piece and cut out. 

 

 

We are now ready to pin and sew.  Right sides together, carefully match the fabric stripes and pin through both layers.  Use plenty of pins and stitch the seam, occasionally peeking between the layers as you go along to make sure that the fabric isn't shifting.  You now have a plaid garment with matched plaids!

 

Michie'

Pleating Without A Pleater

Before pleaters for smocking became popular in the mid 1980's, we pleated the fabric by hand. Since recent changes in the sewing industry have made pleaters harder to find, it is time to look back at this method. Patterns that called for smocking had dots that were transferred to the fabric to form a grid for pleating. You can make your own grid for pleating by using a quilter's ruler and a wash-away marker to mark the fabric. Gingham fabric is great to start with, since it practially has a built in grid.  

First, starch and press the fabric.  The horizontal lines are 3/8" apart and the vertical lines are 1/8" apart.  Using quilting thread and a hand sewing needle, knot the thread at one end and following the horizontal lines, bring the needle and thread up through the vertical lines and back down.

After all the stitching is completed, draw the threads up to about 15 pleats per inch and knot the thread. You now have a piece of fabric ready for smocking. *The fabric is drawn up to about a 3 to 1 ratio, so 9" of fabric draws up to about 3".

If you are new to smocking or need to brush up on an old skill the "Beginning Smocking Book" will take you through step by step and includes several smocking designs.

Michie'

A New Look For A Favorite Pattern

Sewing gives us the chance to be creative, so I always love taking a favorite pattern and giving it a new look.  Designed with a center pleat, daygown pattern #119, is given a new look with an inverted pleat.  And how is this done?  Just stitch the center pleat with the right side of the fabric together, instead of the wrong side as instructed in the pattern. 

Turn on your creativity and have some fun!

Michie'

Angel Sleeve Turtorial

 Pattern #135

Smocked bishop dresses are so forgiving in size, that it was not a big surprise that they still fit this year.  Bright yellow gingham, sleeves trimmed with pink rick rack, and smocked with Ellen McCarn's "Tulip Garden" made a lovely summer dress.

Angel sleeves are an easy variation to a bishop dress.  Click here for the free down loadable instructions.

Michie'

Piping A Pointed Collar

Yes, you can sew piping to a pointed collar and it is incredibly easy!

Pin the piping to the right side of the collar along the seam line.  Measure to determine exactly where the piping will turn the corner and mark the collar with a wash-away marker.  Clip the piping fabric at the point where it will turn the corner and  around the curve.  Stitch close to the piping using a zipper foot or a pin tuck foot.  *I find that it is much easier to stop and start again at the corner instead of pivoting the needle.  You can now complete the collar following the pattern instructions.

Michie'

Stitching Trim To A Round Yoke

A little review for adding trim to a round yoke.  Whether it is piping, rickrack, or the loop trim used here, the technique is the same.  Using a small ruler, measure the seam allowance from the raw edge of the fabric and with right sides together, pin the trim in place. Using a slightly longer stitch length of about 3.0 stitch the trim to the yoke.

When turning a corner, stop with the needle in the down position as you reach the marked seam allowance.  Lift the presser foot and turn the fabric and the trim, lower the presser foot and continue to stitch.

I was pleased with how the trim turned out!  This trim has been in my stash for several years and I am not sure if it is still available, but rickrack would be a nice substitute.

Click here to see the completed dress.

Michie'

Double Tucks

How about double tucks to add detail to a plain bubble or dress front?  My article for making the tucks appeared in Sew Beautiful Magazine several years ago, and it was a nice surprise to see the article posted on their blog recently.

The outfit is made out of yellow handkerchief linen using pattern #126.  The sweet little buttons were purchased from Wendy Scheon Designs.

Click here for the instructions for the tucks.

Michie'

Jumper With Smocked Pocket

Sometimes a touch of smocking somewhere other than the front yoke adds interest to a garment.  This little jumper and blouse was made using pattern #140 and is just right for Spring.  The jumper is fully lined with pink and white seersucker, which also makes it reversible.

Less smocking also tends to be more suitable for the older girls.
Click here for the free downloadable instructions for the smocked pocket.

Michie'

Loop Tape Tutorial

For quick and easy loops for a bishop I sometimes use purchased bridal loop tape.  The loops are a sturdy elastic, but are too close together.

Before stitching the placket in place, I baste the loop tape in place, stitching down every other loop so that they will be caught in the seam.  Stitch the placket following the pattern directions and you have perfectly spaced loops for the buttons.



I'll share the details for this Easter bunny bishop on the next blog!

Michie'

A Little Corduroy Tutorial

A little tutorial about cutting out corduroy. Corduroy has surface texture which is referred to as the "nap."   If you run your hand along the fabric in one direction it will feel like you are stroking a cat.  If you run your hand in the other direction it will feel like your are rubbing the cat in the wrong direction.  If the top of the pattern pieces don't all face in the same direction the garment will look like it is made out of different color fabrics.  I was taught to have the nap running down and just assumed that was a sewing rule.  I was recently looking through a sewing book published in 1964 which stated that the nap of the fabric should run up so that the fabric will have a deeper color.  So just like that, I found that there is not a set rule and we can do what whichever we prefer!  

A few days later I was getting ready to cut out red corduroy for a Christmas outfit and was not totally happy with the color.  The red just wasn't quite red enough.  Fortunately I remembered that there is no longer a "nap rule" and when I turned the pattern pieces in the other direction, the fabric was a deeper red and did not look as washed out.   I often tell my students that there are few right or wrongs in sewing, but many different ways to do things.  This time that saying worked to my advantage. :)

Which direction were you taught for the nap of the fabric to run?

Michie'

The Corduroy Jumper

Soft off white featherwale corduroy made using pattern #132 or #136.  Smocked with Little Memories "go fish."  

Corduroy Hint:  Because of the bulk of the fabric, I only used a 40" strip of fabric to pleat for the insert.


Michie'

Shirt Details

You might have noticed that styles are changing and things are not as matchy matchy as they once were.  Contrasting fabrics used together are becoming quite popular.  I'm not sure what this new trend is called, but while I find it refreshing it can also be a little overwhelming if over done.  

I normally wouldn't have considered any thing other than the shirt fabric for the neckband for the shirt, but a messy cutting table led me to try something different.  The blue gingham gives an otherwise plain shirt an updated look.  Why not pull out some of your leftover  pieces of fabric and see what you can match up?

Michie'

Matching Prints Tutorial

 Do you like to match the prints when sewing a garment with a straight front seam such as a Jon-Jon?  To tell the truth, sometimes I do and sometimes I don't bother.  If the urge does hit, I have a few steps that I follow that are easy and gives a good match.

1. Cut out one front and mark the center seam allowance using a ruler and a wash-away marker. You will only be marking the straight section of the front.

 2. Fold under and press the seam allowance that you just marked and laying it down on the uncut piece of  fabric, position it until your prints match and pin in place.  Here you will see that my elephant is divided in half.  Using the wash-away marker, mark close to the pressed fabric edge the length of the seam on the new piece of fabric.

3. Unpin the fabric and being careful not to shift the fabric, lay the cut out front, right sides together, on top of the fabric so that the previous markings match up.  The pressed line of the front should lay directly on top of the marks.  Peek and make sure everything looks good before cutting out the second front.

 4. I like to baste the seam with a stitch length of about 3.5 to make sure that everything lines up just right before stitching the normal seam. 

 If your prints match perfectly on the first try you are entitled to a little victory yell!

 
Keep in mind that matching the prints will take  extra fabric depending on the size and pattern of the print. 

Michie'

Attaching Rickrack To A Neckband

I decided to revisit the Candy Corn Bishop after receiving several emails inquiring about the rickrack on the neckband.  First of all, what a wonderful surprise that the bishop that I made last year for Sew Beautiful Magazine now fits our special little one!  Now, on to the sewing.

The rickrack is stitched to the right side of the neckband 1/2" from the raw edge, which is the seam allowance for the bishop pattern.  A normal straight stitch down the middle of the rickrack is all that is needed, and the rickrack extends all the way to each end of the neckband.

Next with right sides together, pin and stitch the neckband to the bishop as indicated in the pattern instructions.  You will be stitching right on top of the previous stitching line.

Just the right amount of rickrack will be showing when you finish the neckband!

The same technique' is used for adding piping to a neckband. :)

Michie'

The Perfect Collar

This is one of my favorite sewing tips that I like to share!  One of the signs of a well made garment is how well the collars matches at the neckline.  

I use my trusty little ruler, which is also one of my favorite sewing tools and a wash-away marker and mark the seam allowance on each collar.  

Match the collars up so that they are touching and stitch through the marked lines so that the collars are attached to each other.

Following the pattern instructions, match the center of the collars to the center of the yoke and baste the collars to the garment.  This is one of the few times that I like to do hand basting.  I baste out from the center in one direction, then start at the center again and baste in the other direction.  Once the neckband is attached the collars will be lined up perfectly without over lapping or a gap between them.

An easy trick that is well worth a few minutes of basting!

Michie'

A Pleating Question Answered

It sounds like the last blog has quite a few of you all ready to sew gingham bishops!  And so there were a few pleating questions that have been sent my way.  The most frequently asked question about this bishop was, "How on earth did you keep the little gingham checks straight while pleating?"  And here is the answer, "I didn't!"  I thought about it for a while (about 2 minutes) and chose to let the fabric do it's own thing and embrace the ripply effect that I would end up with.  Besides, the blue fabric does represent water and my flamingos were not in the mood for perfectly calm water!  :)  *The ripply effect is the dark and light uneven patches of color that you see between the flamingos.  

And with that being said, I DO care about pleating straight if I am pleating larger checks and plaids.  I will try to work that into a blog in the very near future.  I know that we have had a shortage of tutorials lately, but as long as Emma is using Nana Shay's office as her bedroom (2 more weeks to go) not only is my time short, I'm also little too distracted for the creative juices to flow!  Right now, I am having fantasies of getting to sit and sew for an entire day.  I'll let you know if that dream ever comes true!  LOL

Michie'

The Secret Weapon!

First of all, a closer look at the white linen bubble that Christian is wearing in the new Sew Beautiful Magazine.

The article in the magazine will give you step by step instructions for accurately marking the tiny tucks on the fabric which is the most important step!

And here is MY secret weapon for getting straight tucks. A presser foot with an adjustable guide. I don't even know what it is called! All I know is that it fits my Baby Lock Ellure sewing machine and that it is pretty magical!

Set the needle in the center position, then adjust the dial to set the white plastic guide for the tuck depth. The folded edge of the fabric, which will become the tuck, rests against the guide.

If your sewing machine will not accommodate a magical presser foot like this one, don't panic! I only discovered this little gem a few years ago and learned with accurate marking and a little patience, I could still get great tucks.

Michie'

The Scalloped Hem Tutorial

The "Daisy Chain" dress featured in the current Sew Beautiful Magazine has got a lot of attention and here are the instructions that I promised to share!

*Click here to download the free instructions.

I found that one of the scallop designs on my lace shaping board was almost a perfect fit for the dress hem.

*Click here for the scallop that I used. The same scallop fits all of the sizes in the pattern!

I know that you will enjoy using this hem technique' to add a pop of color to your sewing project!

Michie'

Baby Jumpsuit Insert Tutorial

Since "A picture is worth a thousand words" I thought that I would share a few pictures. Those of you new to smocking construction will find this a little scary, but let me assure you that it works every time!

Following #138 pattern instructions, complete the smocking and stitch the piping in place. Next, matching the center of the insert to the center of the front yoke, trace the armhole curve with a wash-away marker.
Using a short straight stitch, stitch right on top of the marked line. Using a short and narrow zigzag stitch, zigzag on top of the straight stitching.
Cut out the armhole just above the stitching. The stitching will hold the pleats in place during construction.

This is also the same technique used for smocking at the neck edge and a full smocked bodice.

Michie'